Cosmetics have become a necessity in people's lives, but many people often struggle with unclear ingredients when choosing, which also affects their understanding of the efficacy of cosmetics. Therefore, understanding the common ingredients in cosmetics can help select more suitable products.

 

Cosmetics are products made by combining different functional raw materials according to a certain scientific formula and using certain mixing and processing techniques. The characteristics and quality of cosmetics largely depend on the raw materials, which are divided into matrix materials, auxiliary materials, and additives according to their properties and uses.

 

Matrix raw materials are the main body of cosmetics

 

Matrix raw materials are the main components that can endow the basic skeleton structure of products according to the requirements of various cosmetic categories and forms. They are essential raw materials in cosmetic formulation, reflecting the properties, functions, and uses of cosmetics. The matrix materials mainly include oily materials, powdery materials, gelatinous materials, solvent materials, and surfactants.

 

Oil based raw materials are the main matrix materials for cosmetics, generally divided into oils, waxes, higher fatty acids, higher fatty alcohols, and esters.

 

Oils and waxes are the base materials for cosmetics such as creams, lipstick and lotion. According to their sources and chemical compositions, they can be divided into animal and vegetable oils and waxes, mineral oils and waxes, and synthetic oils and waxes.

 

Common animal and plant oils and waxes include olive oil, coconut oil, camellia oil, snake oil, carnauba wax, beeswax, etc. Among them, olive oil is an important raw material for making massage oil, hair oil, sunscreen, lipstick and W/O balm in cosmetics;

 

Carnaubawax is extracted from the leaves of Brazilian palm cypress, which is one of the hardest cosmetics materials. Adding it to other waxes can improve the melting point of wax, increase its hardness, toughness and luster, so it is widely used in the manufacture of lipstick to increase the heat resistance of products and give luster. It can also be used in ingot cosmetics such as eye black;

 

Beeswax, also known as beeswax, is a yellowish solid secreted by the wax gland in the abdomen of bees. It is the main component of a beehive and can be compatible with almost all waxes and oils. It is a good emulsification material for making lotion cosmetics. Due to its high melting point, it is also widely used in lipstick, hair wax, oily cream and other cosmetics.

 

Mineral oils and waxes refer to oily and waxy substances obtained from petroleum and coal through a series of processing and refining. They are not easily decomposed, have stable properties, and are inexpensive and high-quality raw materials for cosmetics. Common ones in cosmetics include liquid paraffin and Vaseline.

 

Synthetic oils and waxes generally refer to modified oils and waxes synthesized from various oils or raw materials through processing. Commonly used ones include lanolin derivatives, silicone oils, and their derivatives.

 

Advanced fatty acids, fatty alcohols, and esters are the products further separated and purified after hydrolysis of vegetable oils and waxes. High fatty acids and alcohols are important raw materials for various emulsified products and ointments. Fatty acid esters can not only replace natural oils, but also give emulsified products special functions. They are also ideal solvents for pigments and essence. Some fatty acids also have excellent surface activity. Lauryl alcohol, lanolin alcohol, etc. are commonly used raw materials for cream cosmetics, and are also commonly used in hair emulsions, lotion, and other cosmetics.

 

Powder raw material Powder raw material is the base material of cosmetics such as talcum powder, perfume powder, powder, rouge, eye shadow, etc. Its dosage can be up to 30%~80%, and it mainly plays the role of covering, smoothing, adhesion, absorption, extension, friction, etc. in cosmetics. In addition, it is also used as a carrier for fragrances in aromatic products and as a friction agent in toothpaste.

 

Cosmetics that use powder are generally in powder form, solid form, dispersed in solid oil phase or suspension, etc. Powdery raw materials include white powder and colored powder.

 

Common powder materials include talc powder, kaolin, titanium dioxide, mica powder, etc. The extensibility of talcum powder is the best among powders, but its oil absorption and adsorption properties are slightly poor, and it is mostly used in fragrances, body powders, etc.

 

Kaolin has good adhesiveness to the skin, has the properties of inhibiting sebum and absorbing sweat. When used together with talcum powder in cosmetics, it can play a role in easing and eliminating the luster of talcum powder. It is a common raw material for making products such as perfume powder, powder, water powder, rouge, noodles and eye shadow.

 

Titanium dioxide has the strongest hiding power among powders and the best coloring power among white pigments. Because of its minimum UV transmittance, it is often used in sunscreen cosmetics, and can also be used as an important covering agent in products such as perfume powder, powder, water powder cake, noodles, powder milk, etc.

 

Glial raw materials are mainly water-soluble polymer compounds, also known as water-soluble polymers or water-soluble resins. The gum raw materials used in cosmetics were mostly natural gum raw materials in the early days, such as starch, plant gum, animal gelatin, etc. These natural compounds are easily affected by climate and geographical environment, and their quality is unstable. In recent years, it has been replaced by synthetic or synthetic polymer compounds, such as polyvinyl alcohol, which have stable properties, low skin irritation, and low cost.

 

Solvents, raw materials and solvents are indispensable ingredients in the formulation of liquid, paste and paste cosmetics (such as perfume, toilet water, facial cleanser, cold dew, cream and nail polish) and other products. They mainly dissolve and make products have certain physical properties and dosage forms. The solvent raw materials in cosmetics mainly include water, alcohols and ketones, ethers, esters, and aromatic organic compounds.

 

Surfactants are an important component of cosmetics, playing a crucial role in their formation, physicochemical properties, appearance, and application. The main functions include emulsification, solubilization, dispersion, foaming, decontamination, lubrication, and softening.

 

Auxiliary raw materials determine the characteristics of cosmetics

 

Auxiliary raw materials and additives play an important role in the shaping, color, fragrance and some characteristics of cosmetics. Generally, they are used in small amounts, but they also play an important role, mainly including pigments, essence, preservatives, antioxidants and various additives.

 

Pigments, also known as coloring agents, are the main components of cosmetics that use the dissolution or dispersion of pigments to color the matrix and other raw materials, and impart a certain color to cosmetics. According to their sources, they can be divided into four categories: organic synthetic pigments, inorganic pigments, natural pigments, and pearlescent pigments.

 

Essence is made by mixing various spices. Although it is added in a small amount, it plays an important role. The quality of essence not only affects the odor, color, and stability of the form of cosmetics, but also may affect people's liking, and may even affect the irritation and sensitization of cosmetics. The spices used to prepare essence can be divided into natural spices and synthetic spices according to their sources.

 

Natural flavors are divided into two categories: animal based flavors and plant-based flavors. Due to limitations in raw material resources and processing, natural flavors cannot fully meet the current demand for cosmetics in terms of production and quality. Synthetic flavors have the characteristics of high purity, variety, high yield, and low price. They not only meet the problem of insufficient natural flavors, but also expand the sources of flavors and fill in new varieties that natural flavors do not have. Among the currently used essence formulations, synthetic flavors account for about 85%. However, both natural and synthetic flavors cannot be directly used for product flavoring and need to be formulated into a certain fragrance type before use.

 

Preservatives are added to cosmetics to protect them from microbial contamination, prolong their lifespan, and ensure their safety. The national standard GB7916-87 "Hygienic Standards for Cosmetics" has clear regulations on the maximum allowable concentration, restricted range, and necessary conditions for the use of preservatives in cosmetic components.

 

In addition, some additives are needed in cosmetics to achieve nutritional or therapeutic effects, such as vitamins, herbal additives, and trace elements.

 

Management of Cosmetics Raw Materials by Various Countries

 

The management of raw materials for cosmetics is the most important part of ensuring the safety of cosmetic products. Each country has established corresponding management regulations for the raw materials of cosmetics according to its own laws and regulations.

 

The EU has strict regulations on the management of raw materials for cosmetics. According to the EU cosmetics regulations, cosmetic raw materials are classified into three categories for management. The first category of substances is prohibited ingredients, which refer to substances that cannot be used as ingredients in cosmetics and have a dedicated list of prohibited ingredients; The second type of substance is restricted ingredients, which refer to substances that are only allowed to be used in cosmetics under specific restriction conditions. There is a specialized list of restricted ingredients, which clearly specifies the scope of application of restricted ingredients, maximum concentration limits for use in end products, conditions for use, and other restrictive conditions and requirements, as well as warnings that need to be indicated; The third type of substance is a permitted ingredient, but there is no list of raw material ingredients for this type of substance, except for pigments, preservatives, and UV absorbers. At the same time, the EU has established corresponding raw material standards and analytical methods for the substances listed in the appendix of the regulations.

 

The management of cosmetic ingredients in the United States is mainly based on the Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act and the Code of Federal Regulations (CFR). Like the European Union, the US FDA has also established a list of prohibited and restricted ingredients in cosmetics. CFR specifies the ingredients that are prohibited from use in cosmetics and requires manufacturers of cosmetic products to only use ingredients specified in the FDA approved list of color additives (excluding colors used in certain hair dyes). Cosmetics manufacturers and distributors are responsible for the safety of their products and each ingredient in their products. Although the government does not require companies to provide proof of safety, it is mandated that product labels must include a warning message stating 'the safety of this product has not been confirmed'. The ingredients of cosmetics are evaluated by the Cosmetic Ingredient Evaluation Committee (CIR) under the American Society of Cosmetics, Toiletries, and Fragrances.

 

The raw materials for cosmetics in Japan are managed in accordance with the Japanese Pharmaceutical and Cosmetic Act of the Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare. Divide the raw materials of cosmetics into two categories. The first category includes "preservatives, UV absorbers, and tar pigments used in cosmetics"; The second type of raw material is "other cosmetic raw materials other than preservatives, UV absorbers, and tar pigments". Japan implements a strict approval system for new raw materials, and companies applying for new raw materials must provide information on their usage background, physical and chemical properties, safety, and stability.

 

The management of cosmetic raw materials in China has referred to the management methods of countries such as the US FDA, the European Union, and Japan, mainly the European Cosmetic Regulations, and has formulated corresponding management regulations based on China's actual situation. Among them, the "Hygienic Standards for Cosmetics" is the most important legal basis for the management of cosmetic raw materials. The management of cosmetic raw materials in our country is also divided into three categories: the first category of raw materials is prohibited from use in cosmetics (including toxic and harmful chemicals, biological agents, and Chinese herbal medicines); The second category is restricted use of cosmetic ingredients; The third category includes preservatives, sunscreens, coloring agents, and dyes allowed in cosmetics.